Once Upon a Costume

I have been watching the TV show Once Upon a Time pretty regularly since it began. There are a lot of things I enjoy about it, but the costuming is not one of them. I hate to be negative about costuming that I know has taken countless hours of blood, sweat and tears on the designer's part. But the truth is, with a few exceptions, I usually range from being underwhelmed to being slightly nauseated.

Just because she is the evil queen doesn't mean you have to make her look like Elvira!

Everything about this was wrong! The color, fabric and especially the feathers! SO MUCH BLING!

Even the "pretty" dresses are too on-the-nose "princess." Most of them remind me of something my daughter would design. And I just can't get over the fabric choices.

This is, by far, my least favorite design. Who on earth thought it was a good idea to make the fairy's look like jelly fish hookers?

If that wasn't enough for you, it also comes in blood orange.

I think the overall problem for me is that Eduardo Castro, the designer, is way too literal when it comes to designing for a "fairy tale" setting. I can, of course, understand where he's coming from; we're dealing with fairy tale characters, so why not take the designs to the extreme? But, in my opinion, designing for fantasy doesn't mean going over the top. I personally believe that subtlety is much better than the "more is more" approach.

A Fairy Godmother? Or an old prom dress from the 80's?

I know she's evil. You don't have to give her huge shoulders, 80's hair, a crazy hat and a completely confused outfit to prove it!

Two words: Vegas Showgirl. 

I am aware that I may be alone in this assessment, as I'm sure a lot of people love the costuming in this show. So let me give you another great example where the costume designer makes this same mistake in a different way. In the movie Mirror Mirror, the craftsmanship on the costumes is absolutely amazing! But the designer, Eiko Ishioka, goes so over-the-top, that they are completely distracting to the viewer! (Or at least they were to me.) I was especially disturbed by the abundance of bright colors and overall lavishness (even in the lesser costumes).

Even though, at first glance, this is lovely. There is way too much going on. The crazy orange, giant bow, extra ruffles, detailed bodice. It's just too much to look at.

The bright red, huge winged sleeves, voluminous skirt and feather tail would each be statement enough on their own.

With people like this constantly in the background, there is nowhere for your eye to rest.

Now, I believe it is possible to maintain creativity and even do crazy things while keeping the costume subtle enough that it flows with the movie and it's setting and surroundings. A wonderful example of this is in the movie Snow White and the Huntsman. Designer Colleen Atwood does amazing, fantastical things with the costuming, while grounding her ideas in reality just enough to make the costumes flow!

Totally intense, bringing to mind Joan of Arc. Whether you like Kristen Stewart or not, she looks really awesome!

The details on this dress are amazing! Apparently, those undulating details were made by manipulating chains so that they resembled writing snakes. And look at those bird skulls! Completely brilliant design!

I love the chain-mail feeling of this gown! It is beautiful and strong, just like the queen!

I don't know how she came up with these bone-like shoulder details, but it is lovely and stunning!

Feathers done right!

The other example that came to my mind was also, to my surprise, designed by Colleen Atwood. (Apparently I'm a huge fan and I didn't even know it. She has won 3 Oscars and has worked with Tim Burton on 9 films, so far!) You would think that the costumes in Tim Burton's Alice in Wonderland would be the most over-the-top of them all. But, just as with Snow White and the Huntsman, they are subtle and spectacular, all at the same time. As the overall mood of Mirror, Mirror was quirky and funny, I feel that the custom designer should have gone in a direction more like Alice in Wonderland.

If you look closely, even the crazy character's costumes aren't actually that far out. And I love how the pops of color are carefully chosen as opposed to the Mirror Mirror designs that have everything in vibrant colors.

Some more great armor, and I love the two costumes in the background! They tell each character's story without shouting it at you.

So, the moral of this very long post is, costumes should help the actor tell the character's story. They should not be a distraction or a novelty. They should be able to hold their own without interrupting the flow of the movie or television show.

The rise and fall of the pannier

One could say that I am almost morbidly fascinated by panniers. They are just so HUGE, and even on a court gown (which is really what they were made for), it's just too much. So where did they begin, and why?

Most say (i.e., Wikipedia!) that panniers began in Spain in the 17th century, as evinced by the portraits of Velazquez. Though I half- thought they might have had a brief preview in Elizabethan fashion. I was unable to discover, though, if their underclothing included panniers. From my research, I only discovered hoop skirts. Though the portrait of Queen Elizabeth (below) certainly implies panniers, I think!

panniers or hoop-skirt - what do you think?

Portrait of the Infanta by Velazquez.

Of course, the French took the pannier and ran with it. French court dresses, Marie Antoinette, you name it!

Not only the panniers, but a huge train as well!

18th century stays & pannier

18th C. (Victoria & Albert collection).

A portrait of Marie Antoinette.

Another corset and the top part of the panniers (compare with picture above) in some interesting display with a mask. 

After this heyday of the pannier, we don't really see them much after that. The late 18th century tones itself down and slips into the regency style that most women know and love through Jane Austen films. After that there were crinolines and hoop-skirts, and bustles galore, but not (that I can tell) panniers.

They resurface (greatly toned down) in the 1920s, again in court dresses.

A lovely pink and mauve ensemble.

Maybe I'm crazy, and certainly I'm partial to the 1920s, but I think the 1920s version of the pannier really works. Here are a couple non-court dress versions:

A *beautiful* dress worn by the young Joan Crawford in "Our Dancing Daughters" 1928.

We see a bit of the pannier in the 1940s, and it probably cropped up in the 1980s as well (I looked a little and couldn't find anything). But is there a future for the pannier? Is it still alive and well?

Well...I did find a few examples, surprisingly. They are even more toned down than they were in the 1920s, but I think they can still pass as panniers.

A dress designed by Vivienne Westwood (kudos to Pippa, one of my Young Women, who told me about her - I hadn't heard of her before!)

The lovely Emma Stone wearing a dress with something of a pannier beneath. 

Another Vivienne Westwood design. 

So, what do you think? Would you wear a dress with panniers? And how wide would you go?

Animal Attraction

You know you want to buy this handbag and jewelry! 

In some of my searching and general wasting-of-time cruising around the internet, I came across a few really great fashion photos that include animals. So, I searched some more and realized this is somewhat of a trend, and has been for a very long time. 

I just love this ad campaign! Elegant movie stars, opulent jewelry and animals!

I suppose animals can make a photo more dramatic and mysterious. But, in my opinion, they are selling the item just as much as the model is. Honestly, in most of these pictures, I am more likely to want to buy said item just because the animal is there. (Especially if it is a sweet, cute, helpless baby animal!) So, without further ado, here are some totally awesome editorials with some totally awesome animals! Now we'll have to see if we all run out to the store to go shopping for these things. Don't blame me if you love animals just as much as I do!

I can hear you all cooing over this baby goat. Plus, it's an overall fabulous picture. I mostly want the hat and gloves. (And goat.)

Nothing makes a dress look more beautiful than a couple of giant elephants!

I'm a sucker for birds! It makes the dress look even dreamier!

To continue my not-so-subtle secret love of the 70's, I thought this was a really great one to include. I seriously want to be wearing that skirt and those boots. Right now.

I, personally, am a cat lover (even though the evil persian's are not my favorite). But it still makes me want to go buy this black dress (and a lint roller).

Adorable wrinkly dog + Awesome makeup and jewelry = Yes please!

Honestly, I'm not sure if this is an editorial picture or something else, but I love it and it makes me want to wear animal print everything!

This is my favorite! I love everything about this picture! Will someone please buy me an owl?

Doesn't this make you want to go work on the farm... while wearing really expensive impractical clothing?

Weddings of the past, and the Victoria effect

Morag requested that we devote a few posts to the subject of wedding fashion, and so I volunteered to do one from a historical point-of-view. As so often the only clothes that survive are those of high-ranking people, I am throwing in some Royal Weddings as well.

I find it fascinating that wedding dresses didn't used to be white. Often they were just the best dress that you had or could make, and you would use it again after your wedding. I was fascinated to learn, when I visited the new Robert Burns museum in Ayr, that his wife's wedding dress had been black! He bought 15 yards of black lusterine (a twilled cotton in imitation of silk) from a Glasgow merchant, and they were married in 1788. The dress does not survive, but a swatch of the material miraculously survived in the hands of a descendant who lives in America. The swatch of silk is now in the museum in Ayr.

The swatch of material.

Perhaps the dress may have looked something like this!

The following picture is from the 1970s series "Poldark". Although their costuming isn't always spot-on (it takes frightful flights of fancies sometimes, though some of it I do love, however inaccurate), I love that they didn't put Elizabeth in a white dress, for indeed, in this period (much the same as that when Robert Burns and Jean Armour wed) they did not wear white.

The following two gowns are from the Regency era:

Here's where the Royals start creeping in. This was the dress of Princess  Charlotte, daughter of Prince Regent Edward of England. The dress has silver thread!

A close-up, capturing the lustrous feel of the gown.

Next we skip to Queen Victoria, who was married in 1840. It is generally believed that Victoria laid down the law on white wedding dresses, and we haven't diverged very far from that since. 

Victoria's actual wedding dress. There was originally lace on the skirt, but sadly it was removed and reused for other gowns. 

A beautiful portrait of Victoria in her wedding dress. Notice the lace!

There are many royal weddings, of course, but for the sake of simplicity and the size of the post, I'm sticking with the Brits.

I'm skipping ahead again - to 1923, when Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, married King George VI. A prototype of this dress was auctioned off in 2011 and sold for £3,500!

The dress on display.

Queen Elizabeth, Queen Mother in her wedding dress.

 Queen Elizabeth the second was married in 1947. Apparently, hundreds of girls sent her their ration coupons in order for her to have a dress.

Perhaps one of the most famous of royal wedding dresses was that of Princess Diana, who married Prince Charles in 1981. It had a 25-foot long train! It is an interesting dress fashion-wise, as it seems to combine the large sleeves of the 1890s (the puffed sleeves that Anne of Green Gables was so wild about) with the large, crinolined skirt of the 1850s or 1860s. 

Princess Diana & Prince Charles.

Ooft! Look at that train!

More recently, we had the wedding of Kate Middleton to Prince William. This was a very lovely dress, simple but beautiful with nice lace detail. 

Lovely!

An imitation of the dress (obviously not as lovely) that I saw in a Glasgow shop window only days after the wedding.