The Face of a Vamp

Theda Bara, cinema's first 'Vamp' in A FOOL THERE WAS,  1915

As surprising as it may sound, I have yet to see "A Fool There Was". I have read the Rudyard Kipling poem, and the bizarre and lurid novel on which the film was based, but I have yet to see this particular silent gem.

Publicity still, depicting Theda Bara as a destroyer of men.

This early role as a femme fatal, or Vamp, as it was popularly called in the 1920s, has earned her the title of Hollywoods earliest sex symbol. I think by todays standards it is fascinating to see what was considered alluring, mysterious and dangerous.

Vamping with a vengeance! 

Check out this stripy skirt! And the triangular pockets! Wow! 

It is evident, in Vamps from the late 1910's and early 1920's, that a dark, voluptuous look was in favour. Another famous Vamp from the 1920's was Nita Naldi (she played such a role opposite Rudolph Valentino in two films!)

Look at that hair! It's lovely!

Rudolph Valentino manhandling Nita Naldi.

But as I mentioned in my last post, by the middle to late 20's, fashions were changing - even with Vamps.

Pola Negri, who began just as early as the above two actresses, but seemed to survive longer in films than either of them. 

Pola Negri sporting a bob!

In the mid to late 20's a sleek and more subtle Vamp was popular. Two that spring to mind are Greta Garbo and Louise Brooks.

The elegant Greta Garbo. Look at that hat!

The infamous kissing scene from "Flesh & the Devil" where Garbo plays the consummate Vamp. According to legend, after filming the scene, Greta Garbo & John Gilbert just kept going, and the director let them. 

Louise Brooks sporting her famous bob. I've always thought it gave her a girlish look, which nonetheless did not detract from her vampish qualities.

These are especially visible in her German films, like "Pandora's Box" (above) and "Diary of a Lost Girl".

Yours truly, as a 1920s obsessed teenager, also trying the Vamp look.

Despite the changing look of the Vamp throughout the 1910s and 1920s, it was a powerful and fashionable image.

Glove Love

When my sisters and I were wee, my Mother usually bought us special, fancy dresses at Easter time.  If we were very lucky, we might have also gotten a bonnet, purse, or gloves (as my sister Beccah mentioned in an earlier post).  So, at this year's Easter-time, I have been thinking a lot about those exciting accessories!  And for some reason, the one that is standing out to me most, is gloves.

What a great color combination!

I must say, I am very sad that gloves are a lost accessory (with obvious winter-time exceptions).  Of course, I understand that they seem a bit formal.  And they might even be a little annoying and inconvenient in certain circumstances.  But I still feel they could have a place in today's wardrobes.  Obviously not with sweats, but if they were accepted enough, I think the ensemble possibilities would be endless!

I love how Carole Lombard is obviously dressed casually, but she's still sporting gloves.  And aren't they the cutest couple?

When I started searching online, I was surprised to find that gloves are very rare on the red carpet and on celebrities in general.  Of course, there are a few who seem to favor them (I found loads of pics for Paris Hilton, Kim Kardashian and Lily Allen).  But they are definitely still a random fashion choice, and not the dominant fashion accessory I wish they were.

I'm pretty sure Sarah Jessica Parker was born with gloves, they suit her fashion style so well!

Lily Allen. I love her!

I was surprised to find Lucy Liu in gloves.  I guess I'm becoming a big fan of hers!  Plus I love that coat!

A lot of the pictures I found for this post are of old movie stars. They were elegant, neat, and completely appealing in a way that most vintage fashions tend to be (at least for me, that is). But I still believe that gloves could be current.  I can even imagine people wearing them with jeans and a t-shirt. (Have I gone too far?)  Honestly, even though the fashions are not the same as they were when gloves were the norm, if we embraced them as just another accessory, (like scarves or jewelry) then we could find a way to make them work.  I mean, Madonna did a fantastic job with the lace, cut-off gloves in the 80's!  Why can't we do it now?

Ewwwwwwww!

I did find a small, current trend for gloves that cover only four fingers.  To me, when I look at them, they make me want to scream!  That's like making pants with just one leg, or glasses with only one, giant, cyclops lens.  It simply should not be done, and they look extremely uncomfortable to wear!  So, thanks for the effort, but no thanks!

Of course, it's not hard to find gloves in the fashion editorials, and they're all over the runways.  So, how is it that gloves don't trickle down, like most other fashion statements seem to do?

Until now, I have always thought it would be too extreme for me to try to add gloves to my wardrobe.  Like all those teens who only wear black, or people who choose to wear capes.  But after researching for this blog, I'm not so sure any more.  Are gloves too extreme?  I'm not saying that I could single handedly start a trend (no pun intended), or anything like that.  But perhaps, if we all pitched in and started wearing them, maybe, some day, we'll all be able to open our top drawer and find a small stack of gloves, right next to the undies, bras and socks.

To me, these are the perfect gloves.  I want them right now!

*I found this place online that has quite a few great-looking pairs of gloves.  Aside from the fact that I am heading into a Vegas summer, I think I might buy a pair!

Enchanted April

Ever since seeing it in the cinema, the 1991 film "Enchanted April" has been a favourite among my family and myself (the females in the family, that is!). When I moved to central New York to live with my sister Heather, I adopted her tradition of watching it only in April, with the good female company, and snacks and sweets.

Polly Walker, Joan Plowright, Josie Lawrence & Miranda Richardson.

The film never ceases to lose its charm. And the costuming holds up as well. That is because a great deal of it was the real thing! When writing a post about the film last year in my old blog (http://mairiglasgow.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/elizabeth-von-arnim-and-other-loves.html), I read an article online that said that many of the clothes worn were authentic. I seem to remember that it was a matter of budget - that it was cheaper to rent extant clothing than to create new. To my dismay, I was unable to find the reference this year, so I might be full of nonsense. But I maintain that you can tell. There is a quality to many of the clothes worn that you just can't reproduce with todays fabrics. Not that I want to take all the credit away from the costume designer (I don't think ALL the costumes were period), Sheena Napier, who was nominated for an Oscar for best costume design.

The period in question is the early 1920's, probably 1922, which is when the novel "Enchanted April" by Elizabeth von Arnim was published. Many people, when you say 1920s, immediately assume short skirts, drop-waists, and beaded flapper dresses. But the early 1920s wasn't like that at all. The clothing was much looser, longer and gentler than the boyish, severe lines it took on later in the decade. And "Enchanted April" is a perfect example of this beautiful period in fashion history.

Josie Lawrence as Lottie Wilkins.

An example of a period dress from 1922. It looks exactly like something Josie Lawrence (as Lottie Wilkins) would wear (see photo above).

The film is worthwhile on many other accounts - not just for the perfect costuming! It is filmed in Italy in a beautiful castle, and has an amazing cast. If you haven't seen it, I urge you to do so!

Polly Walker as Caroline Dester, the rich socialite who joins the other women in Italy.

Another similar period example: a dress and coat set from around 1922 (pastperfectvintage.com)

Look at the detail on the sleeve and collar!

Polly Walker & the glorious Michael Kitchen.

It's a shame you can't see the whole dress - it's stunning!

I think that Miranda Richardson has never been so beautiful as she is in this film. Every time I watch it I'm amazed by how lovely she is!

Miranda Richardson & Michael Kitchen, as Rose Arbuthnot & George Briggs.

Just in case any of you is now desperate for an early 1920s frock, here are two examples of patterns you can buy. One seems to be very like the clothes Lottie & Rose wear in London, the other is looser & lighter like the clothes worn in Italy. These are reproduced from period patterns, so they are authentic as well.

Ooft! This is TINY! Here's a link to the website:
http://www.pastpatterns.com/2307.html

Here's a much better size! Link for this pattern:
http://www.pastpatterns.com/1332.html

I fell in love with a dress

Every year I assist with the costumes for my daughter’s school play.  This year they put on Singing in the Rain.  So we were pretty surrounded with flappers—fringe and beads and feathers. 

But, somehow, amongst the stockpile of clothing, there was a beautiful midnight-blue velveteen dress from the 1930’s.  A real, vintage dress from the 30’s!

 And as soon as I touched it, I fell in love.  It was beautiful to look at, and it caught my eye at first glance, but it wasn’t until I actually reached out and experienced the brilliance of the bias cut, that I fell in love.  

.  If I could wear a dress like this every day, I would.  It feels so good to touch, and I can only imagine that it feels even better to wear—to be surrounded by that beautiful shimmery-ness! And the details on this dress—especially the sleeves. 

 Sadly, it is quite a bit worse for the wear, and my pictures really don’t do it justice, but I’ll leave you to feast your eyes, and dream of a more elegant time…

It might have been the buttons...

There's a new vintage shop that has opened up on Great Western Road, in Glasgow - everything for £10. Weeks ago I went in and among the fusty and garish gowns spanning from the 1960s to the 1980s, this plain cotton underdress stood out to me.

Not only was it plain and simple, and cotton, it also seemed quite old. I'd say 1920s. Well, I resisted the first time, and the second time, and even the third time. After that, I gave in and bought it. It is in astonishingly good shape. In fact, if it wasn't for the embroidered buttons, monogram, and lace, it looks brand new!

Metal (I think) buttons covered in embroidery floss.

Reinforcement on the other side of the button. And what lovely lace!

The front of the underdress and the monogram.

A full- length view of the underdress.

I justified buying this as I thought I could use it as a shift to go under my stays (corset) for the 1830s dress I'm finishing up (that will have to be a later post). I have a shift, but alas, I left it in New York. However, I tried on my dress today, and it served very well as a shift.

The underdress in action (and a sneak-peek of my dress and a not-to-distant post about it - I hope!).

Elementary, my dear costume designer

I've been watching the American modern-day Sherlock Holmes TV series, Elementary, since it first aired on September 27th, 2012.  It is not as good as the British one, but it somehow leaves me just interested enough that I keep coming back for more.  To me, Jonny Lee Miller just doesn't quite fit the Sherlock Holmes part.  I did, however, realize that he vaguely reminds me of Dr Gregory House.  And since I am having House withdrawals, I think that Elementary is filling that void.

That being said, one of my favorite things about the show is Lucy Liu's wardrobe.  I have rarely seen costuming this good in a modern television setting.  The costume designer, Rebecca Hofherr, is obviously trying to be understated and not too distracting.  But she still manages to give Joan Watson (Lucy Liu's character) tons of style, which I believe adds greatly to her character.  

Here is a quote from Rebecca Hofherr:  “It is, for all intents and purposes, a crime show, and the usual thing is to have the characters on crime shows in uniforms and suits, but Lucy’s character is not a detective, so I was really excited to know that every week I could put her in way more exciting clothing than you’d see on a standard detective show.”

In my own life, I am constantly trying to ride the line between casual and dressy.  Her entire wardrobe does this perfectly.  I love that she is often wearing skirts and tights, or tight things with slouchy things, and sometimes there is even a pleasing pop of color.  Apparently Lucy Liu herself has a lot of input on her character's style.  This definitely shows, because she is obviously comfortable in her clothes, which I think is very important for an actor.  

As a side note, I'm not really crazy about the costuming on Jonny Lee Miller, though that would be a hard character to dress.  I guess I just want his clothing to be a little more unique, and in this it is fairly average.

P.S.  As long as we are talking about Lucy Liu, I figured I might as well include her red carpet dress from this year's Golden Globes (Carolina Herrera).  This is, without a doubt, one of my favorite red carpet dresses from the entire season!