Rag Trade Sisters : July 2014

In America, we've just celebrated the 4th of July, the day of American Independence. It's a holiday that's filled with patriotism, fireworks, and a big nod to the military. In a few weeks, Britain will be celebrating the 100 year anniversary of the beginning of the Great War. So, all this got me thinking of the influence that war and military style has had on women's fashion. So let's explore that history a bit!

This striking riding-habit has a strong military flavour, echoing the famous red coats worn by the British military.

This example from the V&A, circa 1770, is very similar to that shown in the painting above.

Towards the end of the 18th century, women's clothing became looser and less heavy. This gorgeous bodice from the 1780s is an example of this influence, married perfectly to the military influence that also came about from the French Revolution.

The military style carried into the Empire/ Regency period.

This almost seems like an exact copy of a uniform!

A popular look in the 1860s was based on the Zouave jacket.

The Zouave uniform, well known in the Crimean War and the American Civil War.

The fact that so many women donned uniforms during the First World War contributed greatly to the looser, less frilly styles that came after the war.

An example of that can be seen in the Trench coat, which was popularised for both men and women after the Great War.

The Second World War also had a huge effect on women's fashion. These simple dresses might be mistaken for uniforms of some kind.

A modern interpretation of Wartime fashion.

This vintage military look is also popular today with followers of Diesel Punk.

Modern interpretations of the Trench Coat.

As evidenced by Kate, Duchess of Cambridge, the military look is always in fashion, and can look so sleek and timeless.

The first, original Barbie.

As many of you may know, I am somewhat of a Barbie collector. I have always loved Barbies, and have looked on them as being highly desirable commodities. Perhaps this is due to the fact that my Mother forbade me from ever owning any Barbie's of my own. But, luckily for me, my best friend had a vast collection, and we spent most of our playtime whiling the hours away with Barbie and Ken in their Dream House.

I remember her well. She was my absolute favorite!

I know my Mother was only trying to be a responsible parent, but since I have grown up and put a lot of thought into the issue, I honestly don't see why there has to be such a huge controversy about this lovely and fashionable doll. Yes, technically she has alien-like proportions, and she quintessentially resembles the blonde California girl. But I can honestly say that as a brown-haird, freckle faced girl, when I played with Barbie I never felt threatened by her. For me it was always about the clothes, the accessories, the interaction. And the truth is, that is where Barbie got her beginning.

In the 2000's they began to recreate dolls with the original Barbie look. This is one of my absolute favorites, a doll they created for their "Mad Men" line.

Usually, these retro face dolls are created out of what they call "Silkstone" which is a higher quality of plastic. This one is from 2010.

2012

In the mid-fifties, the only dolls available for young girls to play with were baby dolls. Ruth Handler (the creator) noticed how much her daughter, Barbara, loved playing with paper dolls; changing their clothes and having more grown-up themed play time. And thus Barbara Millicent Roberts was born, otherwise known as Barbie.

Here is a group of Pink and Black Label dolls. The designs are still incredible, though obviously not as intricate as the Gold and Platinum Labels.

Danish Court Princess

Amazing art inspired collection. Here is the Klimt doll.

Dolls of the World, Landmark Collection

For my younger self, Barbie woke in me my first fashionable ambitions. Back then it was leg warmers and gaudy peach chiffon gowns. Nowadays, Barbie has become much more sophisticated. Many may not be aware that since the 1990's Matel has commissioned high-end designers to create special outfits for the serious collector. They have also developed the Pink and Black Label doll, which is more expensive than the average doll, with more intricate costumes and designs, but not as expensive as the Gold and Platinum Labels.

One of the earliest designer dolls from Calvin Klein in 1996.

Ralph Lauren, 1996

Bill Blass, 1997

Burberry 2001

The thing that constantly impresses me about Barbie's is their amazing attention to detail. Each hem, cuff, ribbon or accessory has obviously been planned out and executed with careful artistry and dedication. I know of no other doll out there that has accomplished such a high level of quality, beauty and fashion.

Versace, 2004

Queen Elizabeth, 2004. She's amazing! I can't believe I don't own her! Perhaps it's because she was $250.

True Brit, 2006

They did a wonderful line of lingerie dolls which ended up being somewhat controversial for obvious reasons. This one is my favorite, called "Highland Fling." 2006