Saturday, July 27, 2013

Corsets are all about fashion!


Edwardian corset. The typical hour-glass look associated with corsets.


I've always been fascinated by corsets (or stays as they were called in the olden-days). They have a bad reputation, but I will be bold and say not all of them are bad! When I was about fifteen years old I visited my sister Heather in upstate New York where she worked at a living history museum. She was working on stays and an early 19th century dress to wear at this museum. I remember the first time I wore some of these stays made for this period. It was such a unique experience, and I'll never forget that rag-doll feeling I had when I took them off - I wondered how I'd ever hold myself up without them!

I'm fascinated by many eras in fashion history, and often think how nice it must have been in the medieval times before they wore corsets. More comfortable, certainly! As far as I know, corsets first creep into fashion around the late 15th century. And from then on out, it's been difficult to get rid of them. Some of them are quite plain, but I think for the most part they are very decorative and beautiful, which is intriguing, since, for the most part, they were worn beneath clothing and not seen.

Um, no thanks! 16th century metal stays - I think not!

This is more like it! Stays from the 1590s

18th century stays
Some modern made stays from an 18th century pattern. Check out the website:
http://rococoatelier.blogspot.co.uk



Stays from the early 1800s. Notice the high bust and the straight waist & hips.
Corset from the late 1860s.  A very different shape! 
Corset from the 1890s

Camille Clifford, an actress and model for the famous Gibson Girl drawings! Apparently she had an 18 inch waist - a poster-child for the corset!
Corsets are also seen in many, many films, contributing to the fashion and look of the films. I'm highlighting just a few that stand out to me.                                                                                

Dawn French, sporting an uncovered corset in the series "Lark Rise to Candleford". On wearing a corset, she said, "There is something delicious about wearing corsets, something rather nice about being pulled rigidly into position by them,  even if they do seem to push part of one's body into the most remarkable places." 
The famous corset-tightening scene from "Gone With the Wind"

Helena Bonham Carter sporting an uncovered corset as well. In her younger days she was dubbed the "Corset Queen" because of all the period films she was in. 
The days of corsets are not over yet! Besides the lingerie aspect of them, they are worn as fashion-pieces in their own right - and like the examples above, usually on the outside for everyone to admire! I'll start with a famous example & end with a couple more tame ones!

We can't forget the infamous corset Madonna sported! 

A fairly traditional looking corset. This and the corset below are just two examples of many that are available to buy online.

A steampunk corset.

Sunday, July 21, 2013

Black and White and Dramatic All Over

Carole Lombard is stunning in this heavenly lighting!

Absolutely nothing captures drama and emotion quite like black and white. I am not trying to knock color, as I am a huge fan of all movies, no matter their race, creed or color (I am very liberal that way). But I believe that a little something was lost when movies changed from two tone to Technicolor.

I love the softness of this picture of the angelic Lillian Gish! I really don't think this effect can be achieved in color.

The shadows and fur perfectly capture Marlene Dietrich's sultry persona!

When movies started, not only were they black and white, but they were silent as well. Luckily, they were able to portray a lot of emotion through the actors dramatic and histrionic capabilities. But I also believe that the black and white medium (combined with fantastic lighting) helped them with their overall communication to the audience. And I truly don't believe they would have had the same results if they had been working in color.

Bette Davis could be both virtuous and villainous. I love how fresh and young she was captured here! 

Jean Harlow was the quintessential vamp. The dark shadows and dramatic pose are very appropriate for her.
I am always impressed when modern filmmakers use black and white (though, unfortunately, it happens very infrequently). I am always so saddened when I hear that many people refuse to watch black and white movies! (Oh the treasures they are missing out on!) But it is nice to see that it is at least alive and well in magazines and editorials! 

Some of the best lighting and cinematography I've ever seen!

Black and white definitely made this movie more dramatic.

Now, I know this isn't a movie blog, but as I said, I am addressing black and white as a medium here, be it a still or a moving picture. So, may I present to you some wonderful pictures that are twice as lovely and twice as sultry because they were taken in black and white. For the sake of brevity, I couldn't use all of the wonderful pictures I found. But I tried to pick some of my favorites from a number of different time periods.

Myrna Loy, one of my favorites! This picture wouldn't be nearly as dramatic and mysterious in color.

What's that you say? I already used a picture of her? Too bad! Look how awesome her cheek bones are!

Greer Garson was so beautiful! I love how there are shadows of her eyelashes!

One advantage of black and white is that it can really make the eyes pop. Though I imagine it probably helped that Joan Crawford had amazing eyes!

Lauren Bacall was definitely stunning in color as well, but I think this medium perfectly captures her sultry mysteriousness.

In my opinion, black and white can amplify so much. And not just drama. Textures and angles are created and it almost becomes more art than photograph. Here are a few stunning modern pictures that completely support my claim:

Again, shadows can do so much in black and white. I love the angles it creates here with Kiera Knightly.

Could Kate Winslet look more gorgeous?

This is one of my very favorites from the lot! The shadows, the angles, the eyes and the hat! Like I needed another reason to adore Emily Blunt!
Just one example of a modern, black and white editorial. Notice the wonderful shadows and textures that are created .


Tuesday, July 16, 2013

That's a DRESSING gown?!

Dressing gown from 1865-75

I was spending some time online looking at the Metropolitan Museum's collection of clothing, and realised that I was looking a A LOT of dressing gowns. Not only that, they were amazing. Several, if not all of them, I would wear as a regular dress. These days many of them are fancier than many dresses you could get in a shop. I was going to try a chronological thing, but gave up and just chose a number of ones that caught my eye. But for a fashion feast, check this out: http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections?ft=dress

I will start with the earliest, though, just for the sake of uniformity!


This one is from the early 1800s. Isn't it amazing?

This is from circa 1825. Seriously. 

Check out the selection of fabrics used for this dressing gown!

Gorgeous! From the 1850s

Wow! 1860s

1880s

Late 1880s

Very romantic. 1890s

I love the simplicity of this. From Berlin, 1910.

These last three are by fashion designer Charles James, and are from 1945.

For some reason I just love these!

I think this one is my favourite.


Saturday, July 13, 2013

It's Only a Paper Swoon

If I could only collect one, I would choose this Andy Warhol, Campbell's Soup dress.

Many years ago, I discovered the existence of the 1960's paper dress and instantly fell in love. In my research, I discovered that they were initially made by advertisers as  promotional offers starting around 1966. Customers could send in a coupon and $1.25 to receive their dress. This marketing stint quickly kicked off a fashion craze where they were eventually sold at department stores for up to $8! They also ended up making other paper clothing, including underwear (how uncomfortable!), men's vests, children's clothes and even bridal gowns!

An actual advert for "The Souper Dress."

Nothin wrong with advertising your love of cats! Meow!

Whenever I see old ads like this, I wish SO MUCH that I could send in the order form and it would magically travel back in time to get me my clothing order!

I really think Hallmark should do this again. Matching dress, wrapping paper, decor, plates, napkins... It's everything a girl could wish for!


Unfortunately, like all fashion crazes, the paper dress died out in just a few short years. It is my dream to someday collect some of these gems. I just love the idea of disposable fashion (no matter how impractical that may be). I think it also says a lot about the 60's, from an historic standpoint. That's probably a big reason why they are so fascinating to me. Not to mention the fact that I love the fashions from that time period anyway. Call me a school girl, but I am also a big fan of paper and paper products in general.

I would wear this today, or frame it on my wall.

I like the close up detail, and I'm pretty sure this is the same Hallmark dress.


The awesome thing I also discovered is that there have been a select few designers and artists who have continued to explore the wonderful world of paper clothing! Though they are not the little, 60's, mini-dress, they are often so intricate and amazing that it's hard to believe they are made from paper! And I would give anything to be able to see them in person! Again, I believe that the marriage of paper and fashion can only lead to happiness. Prepare to be amazed!

Awesome picture and dress!

I love how they created the graphic on this!

Origami gone crazy! I love it!
As a side note, Project Runway had a newspaper challenge that was very exciting! That one on the right is my favorite!


Apparently, designer Yeohlee uses paper in her designs from time to time.

OK, here's where it gets really amazing! Edward Maeder has made a whole bunch of these paper dresses from 18th century fashion. 

He considers himself an artist and a "needle man."


He uses reclaimed paper products like coffee filters and Q-Tips (which you can see here).

Can you believe this is paper?! 
Here and here are a few links about Edward Maeder. Amazing!!!

Here we have the stunning paper workings of Isabelle de Borchgrave!

The beauty of this creation is beyond compare!

Is it to be believed that someone can be this intricate and accurate with paper?!

Yup. That's paper.

She has had many commissioned pieces that are permanent fixtures at museums around the world. Most of them are either copies from paintings or of real-life pieces.

Here is another stunning commissioned piece! Apparently, she does a lot of the intricate detail with paints.

This might be my favorite (of the one's I've seen). The stripes and pleats leave me breathless! Who am I kidding? There's no way I could choose a favorite!
Here is a link to her website. Maybe we can all take a field trip to see her stuff together! (I think her studio is in Brussels.) Lets go!