The Man From U. N. C. L. E.

I know I'm a little late in posting about this movie, seeing as it was released in theaters clear back in August. But, I wasn't able to see it until recently, hence my tardiness. The moment I finished watching the movie I knew I wanted to do a post about it. The costumes were absolutely out-of-this-world amazing! 

Yes to the amazing color combination in this frame!

Elizabeth Debicki had some shots where she looked exactly like Audrey Hepburn. (You may also recognize her from The Great Gatsby.)

Seriously. Them men looked just as beautiful as the women in this.

Kelly green and white. One of the best color combinations ever!

I've said this before, I love a movie where the costuming takes on a character of it's own. Of course, this isn't always possible, depending on the tone of the movie. (For example, we couldn't have had ostentatious costuming in Schindler's List or True Grit.) But luckily for us - the audience, Guy Ritchie created a rollicking good movie which touched every aspect of the film, and more than satisfied all of our movie-watching taste buds.

This ruffle necked ensemble was a surprising and fresh slice out of the 60's style archives.

Her accessories were so amazing!

I wish I had a full shot of this coat. It took my breath away!

Perhaps the only down-side to the costuming was that Henry Cavill was so muscular that his skinny suits sometimes looked a little awkward. Not a big deal though. I'm not really complaining.

With each new scene, there was a new dress or suit or hat or accessory that took my breath away. I felt like a visual kid in a candy shop. The costuming was done by Joanna Johnston who has had a very diverse and impressive costuming career which includes: Lincoln, Munich, About a Boy, Saving Private Ryan and Forrest Gump (just to name a few). In this case, the costumes were so perfect and gorgeous that without them, the movie could have fallen flat. There was a very high sense of style and wit in the dialogue and direction, and I believe the costumes were the integral glue that held it all together. If you haven't seen it, you need to do so right away. I cannot wait to see it again. PS - The men are really great to look at as well!

See it!

To the best of my knowledge, I've never watched the original. I'm sure it was fantastic.

Mail Order Fashion

My sister and I came up with a fun idea of doing a two part post. The first, compiled by yours truly, is on catalogues and fashion (including it's exciting history). She will be writing the second in a week or two based on the history of patterns! I chose catalogues because every time I see any old mail-order fashion item (whether it's from the 70's or the 20's) I have a secret fantasy that I could still fill out the order form, send it in, and magically receive the item. Straight out of time! I completely loved researching this one!

An early engraving of a Venetian printing press.

Before official catalogues, there were the more simple mail-orders. When I began my research of such, I assumed this practice began in the early Victorian period (when everything else started). The truth actually made my jaw drop. The first ever catalog was published in Venice in 1498! Can you believe it? These pamphlet-like listings were handed out during town fairs and first sold books or gardening supplies.

1700's shopping

A wonderful engraving by Hogarth of a London fair.

This seemed to continue steadily throughout the centuries, slowly picking up steam. The first modern mail order was formed in 1861 in Wales. With the establishment of the postal service in the 1840's as well as the expansion of the railways, the possibilities of true mail order commerce began to snowball. In the United States, the first real catalogue appeared in 1845 from Tiffany's. The first-ever Sears catalogue appeared in 1888 selling only watches. However, it grew rapidly, and by 1895 they were producing an 532-page catalogue that sold everything from car parts, to clothing, to groceries to kit houses. 

Ordering a house-kit is so mind boggling to me. Plus, I've seen this style of house many times. Were they all built from kits?

Hats from roughly 1905-1910. Aren't they lovely? And so reasonably priced!

From roughly the same period. A fur wrap for less than $2!

1910 Sears catalogue.

These prices are outrageous! But at least it's free shipping. (1916)

With the passing of each World War, catalogues increased in popularity. After the second, household incomes increased and the demand for mail-order goods increased along with it. An interesting development in this history is the addition of JC Penney in 1962. They were the first store to enter the mail order race with an already large retail store base.

I don't know how a girl is expected to choose just one of these! They are all amazing!!!

The 20's made huge leaps in presentation.  I would give my left arm for that plaid shift!

I love the stylized 20's drawings!

1934. I think the dress for $.59 is my favorite!

These gowns and drawings leave me speechless. I wish we could see more dresses like these at the Oscars.

Mid 30's. I chose this for the creepy cartoon man she's walking with. Plus, who doesn't love a sailor suit? 

This 1940's coat and hat combo! I need!

I just love 40's shoes! I'll take one of each!

Although retail stores grew, with shopping malls and strip malls, catalogues remained extremely popular throughout the 1980's and into the 1990's. I still remember the excitement from our entire household when we received the new Banana Republic or J Crew catalogues. I loved pouring over each page, perhaps marking the things I wanted most. The fashion possibilities were endless!

1950's dreamy dresses. I'll take the floral green one.

The Indian Touch! I am drooling over this 1955 dress/pant combo! I need to make myself one of these!

The 60's really did pastels right!

I love the posing! And the plaid!

1965 Spiegel cover. The Spiegel I remember was much different. I love that this entire ensemble (including the hair) is a rusty brown, then that pop of teal at the collar. Genius!

Look at these crazy late 60's shoes!

Something for everyone! 1972

Not my favorite style to come out of the 70's.

This, however, is pretty amazing. As is the hair!

1975. I couldn't help myself.

Now this is pretty sweet! Including the boots.

And now, catalogues seem to be more of a nuisance than an excitement. The internet has all but killed this once thriving corner of industry. Of course, mail-order is still alive and well. I would be nothing without my Amazon Prime! But it is now much more impersonal. The tangible feeling of holding a catalogue and then ordering something (which could often take weeks to process) is now gone. Do I love my two-day shipping? Yes! But I can't help but feel that something just beyond my reach has been lost forever. 

Oh 80's! I remember that I got a pair of corduroy culottes a lot like these for my 6th or 7th birthday.

A rainbow of colors and options.

The family that Star Wars' together, stays together.

Ah yes! The over sized sweatshirt and stirrup pants. I can't believe this look hasn't come back around!

The great thing about the older Banana Republic catalogue's is that their styles are pretty timeless. Seriously! Look at that dress and belt! Gorgeous!

This was my personal favorite when I was about 13 or 14.

Vera Brittain: the fashion of Testament of Youth

Taron Egerton, Alicia Vikander, Kit Harington & Colin Morgan in Testament of Youth 2014.

Last year, to coincide with the 100-year anniversary of the beginning of the Great War, a film was released based on the autobiography of Vera Brittain, a girl whose whole life was altered by the war. Her fiance, her brother, and all their close friends were killed during the First World War. 

Last month I was able to see this film in the cinema, and I am so grateful to have seen it on the big screen. The costume designer was Consolata Boyle, who also did the costuming for such films as The Secret of Roan Inish (1994), The Winslow Boy (1999), The Queen (2006), and many others. She did such an amazing job bringing the mid to late 1910s to life. I was thrilled to read, in an article from Harper's Bazaar that she took great care in getting an accurate look, even scouring antique shops for extant clothing. I was also happy to read that she based a lot of the designs of descriptions that Vera herself left of her wardrobe. Boyle's attention for detail is evident in the beautiful costuming produced for this film. 

A glimpse of the lovely pink gown which matches this hat. 

Vera Brittain before the war - possibly the same event as the one pictured above from the film. 

Vera in her VAD uniform. 

A fashion picture from 1915

A suit from 1916 

This suit and hat from the film are very similar to the two above examples. 

Note the lovely embroidery on her blouse. Her beret is stunning too.

I wonder if, like the costuming in Downton Abbey, extant materials and fabrics were used for this hat and other of her costumes. 

Such a lovely blouse!

A look at the cut of her jacket, from the same outfit as the above photograph. 

I love the simple elegance of this time period. 

Such a beautiful scene, as well as a lovely outfit. 

It reminded me of this lovely photo of another famous author of that time - poetess Edna St Vincent Millay. 

Again, in this blouse and hat you can see the care to detail that was given in this costuming.

A fashion plate from the 1910s.

A lovely brown suit from the 1910s, similar to the suits worn in the film by Alicia Vikander.

It is always exciting to see how fashions of past decades and centuries are interpreted and recreated for film. Testament of Youth is such an inspiring story of the strength of the human spirit, and Consolata Boyle did an amazing job of reflecting the story through her costumes.