Thursday, February 20, 2014

What the BAFTA?

Lupita Nyong'o is flawless in this simple, vibrant gown!
Lately I have been crazy about plaid, so I'm not surprised that this dress makes me swoon. It's just the right amount of rebel without losing the elegance. 
This gown fit Cate Blanchett to a T (also pictured below), and I really liked this huge, silver pendant!
I just wanted to do a quick recap of the fashions at the BAFTA awards which took place a few days ago in the UK. I missed seeing them televised, but have looked up as much of the red carpet looks as possible. In general, my overall opinion is a big giant question mark. I know that the Brits pride themselves on being free thinkers and non conformists (leave all that to Hollywood). And I love a lot of fashion that's on the fringe, but on the whole I just felt that many of the looks were either too casual, too crazy or just inappropriate. Nothing seemed original or exciting, just a few stunners and a lot of crazy.

I'm on the fence about these two. I kind of like the scale-like quality of the skirt, but maybe it's the colors I don't like.

I almost like this dress, and maybe if it was on someone else I would get pushed in one direction or another. But it's just weird to see Michelle Rodriguez all dressed up.


As a side note, American Hustle won for best hair and makeup while The Great Gatsby won for best costuming. For some reason I was a little surprised by that. Only time will tell if the Oscars will follow suit.

For realz?

Oh Emma! Words can't express my love for you! I just wish I could equally love your fashion choices.

OK, so Edith's dress is quaint, but it isn't exactly red carpet worthy, and it makes her look like she's 14. As for Maggie Gyllenhall, there are a few too many hot gypsies thrown in to this number.

I'm sorry Helen, you're usually flawless, but I just can't like this dress.

Lily Allen!!! What on earth were you thinking?! That is all.

NO, NO and good try.

I have no response to this.

This "suit" is an absolute abomination. It makes her look fat, the pants are too short and that material is just all wrong!

Thursday, February 13, 2014

Sachet into lingerie

1930s lingerie advert.


What could be more appropriate for Valentine's Day than a post about lingerie? Lingerie as we now know it is a relatively modern invention. The underclothing pictured below is not provocative at all. Indeed, historical underclothing was more about providing layers to keep your outer garment clean, and also for providing the correct shape for your clothing.

Stays (corset), petticoat and sleeve puffs, 1830s. ALL this went underneath your dress.
One of the pioneers in lingerie was Lady Duff-Gordon, who wanted to eschew restrictive corsets in favour of more natural and revealing under attire. She's also credited with starting the runway, and employing live models (called mannequins in the early days). The company she started, Lucile, has recently been revived (due to the popularity of Downton Abbey!). Though she didn't get rid of corsets right away. The two pictured below are designs of hers, from the late 1910s.


The 1920s certainly saw a new look in underclothing and the birth of lingerie as we know it today:

A Coles Phillips advert for Holeproof Hosiery showing a woman in her lingerie.


A vintage wee 1920s robe affair. 

When taking a look at 1930s lingerie, all I could think of was Jean Harlow, who seems to me to be the queen of 1930s lingerie. What do you think?

From "Dinner at Eight". Those feathers!

Black lace works too!
The hey-day of lingerie, though, is surely the 1940s and '50s. Enter pin-up girls (I know there were pin-up girls before the 40s, but, you know what I mean!), crazy bras (those pointy 50s ones?! Eek!), etc.


The 1940s version of Jean Harlow's ensemble? 

The scary pointy bras!


A vintage 1950s bra.

Lingerie is with us still, of course. Stores like Victoria's Secret are alive and well. The posh Lucile offers a somewhat vintage (and very expensive) range. I love the bed jackets:

A few of the items offered by Lucile.

I hope, even if you don't get or give any lingerie this Valentine's Day, that you will enjoy this little peek into the history and travels of lingerie.


Friday, February 7, 2014

Oscars and Costumes 2014

I thought it might be interesting to some if I were to give a summary of the five films that are nominated for an Academy Award this year. I do my best to see as many of the nominated movies as possible, but I have only seen three of the five. So, for those of you who are interested, here is my summary and, also, my inevitable opinion.

12 Years a Slave




The costuming done on this film by Patricia Norris was definitely good. It was, however, heavy on the male costuming, and light on the female. I think this makes it unique as far as period pieces go. And I also feel that, because of it's lack of flashy ball gowns, it might lose the race because of it.

American Hustle




Michael Wilkinson did the costuming on this wild romp of a movie (his most notable other credits include 300 and Man of Steel). I honestly don't know where to begin. First of all, I love how they decided to embrace all things 70's! It seems like, more often than not, when Hollywood produces a movie set in the 70's or 80's, they always try to downplay the style as much as possible. They did exactly the opposite in this movie with enormous success! 

Patricia Norris (12 Years a Slave) said that if you don't notice the costumes then they're good. I couldn't agree less with that statement. A costume, in and of itself, is something made that contrasts with the overall normal fashion of the current day. So that should make the style noticeable right from the start. Furthermore, I believe that if the costumes are truly spectacular, they will take on a character all their own. They transport, delight and captivate. And most importantly, I also believe that they can help a good actor give an even better performance.

This is all true when it comes to American Hustle, and that is why it is my personal vote for best costuming. I was blown away by the costuming! Plus, as crazy and often comical as the costuming was, Jennifer Lawrence and Amy Adams have never looked better! That being said, I am sure all of the nominees deserve a win, and I will not be disappointed if American Hustle loses. But I thought it was phenomenal!


The Grandmaster




William Chang Suk Ping did the costuming on this most current telling of the legendary Ip Man (who famously trained Bruce Lee). I haven't been lucky enough to see this yet, though I'm dying to do so. Tony Leung is absolutely one of my favorite actors! And from what I can tell of the previews and pictures, the costumes look wonderful! But I can't really offer an opinion any further than that.

The Great Gatsby






The costuming, done by Catherine Martin, was definitely lovely. But, for some reason, I wasn't overly impressed by it. I can't really put it into words, but I just expected more. I loved that white frock pictured above with the lovely hats though.

The Invisible Woman





Michael O'Connor did the costuming on this film (he also did The Duchess for which he won an Academy Award). Unfortunately, I have not seen this movie either, but from what I can tell, the costumes are very impressive! Plus, Ralph Feinnes looks absolutely astonishing, doesn't he?! I have no doubt that O'Connor is worthy of another award.

And my honorable mention goes to:
Catching Fire





I wanted to give a quick shout out to this movie because I thought the costuming on it was done so well and I was shocked it didn't get nominated (especially because it was such a popular movie). The first movie was so boring, as far as the costuming goes, and Trish Summerville managed to infuse just the right amount of crazy into the second. As with American Hustle, I felt the costuming really added a lot to the overall theme and feel of the movie.

Saturday, February 1, 2014

Lady Catherine would never approve!



I have to confess that I finally gave in to the world of Pinterest. I use it to feed my addiction for fashion ranging from 1800-1830s. So, while I had 1830s on the brain (which, these days is quite often!) I thought I'd do a post on a film whose fashion was inspired by the 1830s. Consider it also my second (and probably not my last!) post dealing with Jane Austen adaptations and their fashion accuracy.

The 1940 "Pride & Prejudice" with Greer Garson & Laurence Olivier

The film in question is the 1940 version of "Pride & Prejudice". For true Jane Austen fans, it must be a travesty of the worst kind. All sorts of things are changed, left out and added to this Hollywood adaptation, not to mention that the costumes are a good 15 years off. Despite its glaring inaccuracies, I admit to being rather fond of this film. Perhaps because it's the first film version of "Pride & Prejudice" I saw. Perhaps because nothing can go seriously wrong in a film that stars Greer Garson and Laurence Olivier, two remarkably beautiful people.

And after all that gushing, to the costuming. For Hollywood in the 1930s and '40s, the costumes (designed by Adrian) are remarkably accurate to the 1830s. They're a bit of a caricature of the 1830s, but I'll show you some examples:

Bonnet worn by Greer Garson. This is not accurate for the period, but you can see where they get the idea from (see below):

Illustration/ fashion plate from the 1830s

Mary Boland & Edmund Gwenn as Mr & Mrs Bennet. Mrs Bennet's dress is very good. 

The lovely Greer Garson in her green bonnet. 


Woa! That dress is going to fall off! But something about "Miss Bingley's" wardrobe reminds me of this dress:

Ball gown from the 1820s/ 1830s.


Jane's dress on the far left reminds me of my own dress made from an 1830s pattern:



Below are several examples of extant gowns to give an idea of authentic 1830s clothing.


A plaid dress from the 1830s.

A lovely stripey dress with pelerine from the 1830s.

1830s fashion plate. There are some pretty low shoulders here (see above photo)!



A lovely white 1830s dress.

Greer Garson wearing underclothing! Again, I'm not sure if it's 100% 1830s, but hey, she's wearing a corset!

Dress worn by Ann Rutherford who plays Lydia Bennet.


The skirts are a little too wide, but otherwise they are quite good for a representation of the 1830s.

Ah. All's well that end's well (though this might be from the 1st proposal scene...).