Extraordinary Designer Highlight

Antonio Berardi

I recently stumbled upon a fantastic designer I had never heard of before. His name is Antonio Berardi, and I am completely in love with his designs!! He is from Great Britain and is of Sicilian descent. So far, he mostly shows at London Fashion week, but he has shown at Milan and Paris as well. I personally think it's only a matter of time before he becomes a major, recognizable name in fashion.

Perhaps my favorite thing about his designs is his unique use of color and shape. Some of his pieces border on strange, but for me, most of them are downright stunning. I would love to hear what you think of the selection I have complied from his past 3 or 4 collections.

His most recent, pre-fall collection:
(This collection is all about angles and textures. So amazing!)

spring/summer 2015:
(Wonderful and varied colors and silhouettes!)

fall/winter 2014:
(That teal is absolute perfection! And combined with yellow?! Genius!)

The Face of Poldark: Past & Present

As a child, I grew up watching the 1970s BBC series of Poldark, a tale set in the l8th century Cornwall, full of passionate drama and larger-than-life characters. When I found out that a new series was in the making, I was more than thrilled. 

Angharad Rees & Robin Ellis as Demelza & Ross Poldark in the original 1975-1977 series

A couple years ago I started reading the novels, the first of which was published in 1945. I realised that the 1970s series had departed quite a lot from the novels. 

Last week I was able to see the first episode of the new Poldark series starring Aidan Turner and Eleanor Tomlinson, and so far it seems to follow the novels more accurately. Novel to screen adaptation aside, I want to take a look at the costuming of both series and see how they compare to extant late 18th century fashion. 

They did a good job in the original series of using bright colours and prints. 

This 18th century ensemble is similar to the outfit Demelza is wearing in the above picture.  (Fashion Museum Province of Antwerp)

Norma Streader as Verity Poldark. I love this dress, but think it might fit earlier in the 18th century than the Poldark story takes place.  

Detail of stomacher, Robe à la Française, 1725

For the most part, I think the costuming in the 1970s series is quite good. You can tell that they tried to be accurate, though it is inevitably 70s influenced. Even this frightening flight of fancy (Demelza's ball dress) is pretty authentic, though the colour is a bit garish. 

French, ca. 1775 (Met Museum)

In the new series, I think the same could be said - it is mostly accurate, though authentic details such as caps, fichus and neckerchiefs are missing. I think my biggest complaint in the new series is how flat the dresses are. Sometimes it doesn't look like the women (Demelza especially) are wearing any petticoats. 

Demelza's dresses are very plain as well. This reflects the fact that she is working-class, and is employed as a kitchen maid. But I think there is a misconception that poor people wore plain clothes, or only one layer of clothing. 

Here is a painting of a kitchen maid, complete with apron, cap and neckerchief.  (A Kitchen Maid, Hughes Taraval, 1783)

Sometimes, however, they get it pretty spot-on, as in these examples: 

Heida Reed as Elizabeth Poldark (BBC One). 

Dress a la polonaise, about 1780. Almost exactly the same as the above dress. Notice the fullness of the skirt, though, which is missing from Elizabeth's dress.

Ruby Bentall as Verity Poldark (BBC One). 

This Robe a l'Anglaise (Glasgow Museums) is astonishingly similar to the gown above, as though the costume designers made a copy of it. 

Elizabeth, Demelza & Verity in their ball gowns. I don't really like Demelza's dress. I doesn't seem accurate, and the fit of the bodice is awful (BBC One). 

It may have been based on this painting, though this is from 1761, and is therefore a good twenty years earlier than when the Poldark novels take place. If Demelza's ball gown had a better fitting bodice (look at how perfect it is in the painting!) and been fuller in the skirt, I think it would have worked better. 

I find that I quite like Verity's wardrobe in the new series (and in fact, I loved it in the old series as well). This ball gown of hers is very reminiscent of the Chemise a la Reine that became popular in the 1780s:

Probably in style it is a Robe a l'Anglaise, but the light colour and the gathering on the bodice are pulling elements from a Chemise a la Reine. 

Chemise a la Reine, 1785-1789. (Musée de la Toile de Jouy)

As with the way in which the books are adapted, there will be elements that you love, and some you do not like. The same goes for the costuming. Make sure you're in on the evening of June 21st (for those Americans reading this) and you can see for yourself!