Jane Austen fashion: in film & in reality

When looking up film adaptations of Jane Austen novels, it seems, almost, that there are hundreds of them! I couldn't possibly focus on all of them. But I did want to give a sort-of overview of the good, the bad, and the ugly. So I'll be looking at the 1995 and 2005 versions of "Pride and Prejudice", the 1995 and 2008 versions of "Sense and Sensibility" and the 1995 version of "Persuasion" (I was so appalled by the 2007 version of "Persuasion" that I am not even going to acknowledge its existence!). Even though this is not an all inclusive assessment, there is more than enough material (and even more pictures) to work with.

I'll start with the worst, and end with the best. Except for my dismissal of the 2007 "Persuasion" I'll try to refrain from reviewing the merits of the films, and just focus on the quality of the costuming.

So...the worst (costume-wise): Pride & Prejudice 2005. The costuming was designed by Jacqueline Durran (she also did costuming for "Atonement" & "Anna Karenina". I haven't seen either, so cannot comment on the costume quality). In this film, it's just a hodge-podge. When on earth is it set? 1790s? 1800? 1810? You can't have all three in one film. Sorry. 

We'll start with Lady Catherine. Lavish purple dress, circa - wait for it - 1770. 

Judy Dench wearing the hair-style and dress of the 1770s

An example from the 1770s

 This is all well and good till we get to the girls. I admit that perhaps someone older might not wear current fashions, but Lady Catherine is no Miss Havisham - she should be fairly current with the fashions of the day.

Charlotte & Elizabeth.

Here we have Charlotte & Elizabeth. First of all, the hair is all wrong. Where are all the curls? They were all about curls back in the day. I think even spanning 1770 to 1810 we can safely say no straight hair. And no fringes! Ugh.  As for the dresses, Charlotte's might get by in the turn of the century (1790s to first few years of the 1800s), but Elizabeth's hovers more towards 1810. But neither of them is spot-on as far as accuracy goes.

Kitty & Lydia

With this picture of Kitty and Lydia (or vice versa), will someone please tell me what is going on? Is this a still for "Little House on the Prairie" or something? I'm so confused! Again fringes. No! And this time we have curls, but, um...not the right kind. And the dresses are all wrong as well, I won't even attempt to guess at what time period they were trying (or not trying) to recreate.

The worst of all is Caroline Bingley. Hello circa 1970 Barbra Streisand! If a woman had walked into a ball in her underclothing, I would hope she would have been thrown out. And what is that hair? NOT 1770-1810 hair at all!

That hair is totally wrong!

Caroline Bingley: "I've cut off the sleeves of my shift - I thought it would make a nice frock." I don't think so!

I think she was going for this look (which is from the 1968 "Funny Girl" which is another example of horrible costuming)

And then, out of the blue, they'll have something really lovely and accurate too. Consistency is not the strong suit of the costume designer.

This is a lovely gown worn by Jane (I apologise for the fact that I was not able to find a better picture of it). While not as tidy as an original piece would, perhaps, have been, there are examples of dresses like this from the early 1800s. More on this style anon. 

The next film I will discuss is the 1995 "Persuasion", with costumes by Alexandra Byrne (who did the stunning costumes in "Elizabeth", as well as "Finding Neverland", "The Phantom of the Opera" and "Thor" among others). There are some elements to the costuming of "Persuasion" which I like, but on the whole it comes across as a little sloppy. And I'm troubled by the undergarments. I can't make out if they have stays on or not. I think they have some sort of bust support, but it doesn't look quite right. And the shifts have really long sleeves that I'm not sure about either. And the straight, fringy hair is also present. It makes me shudder!

Just to give you an idea, this is what every woman in every Jane Austen adaptation should be wearing under their dress:

The proper stays (corset) to give you the right silhouette for the high-waisted fashions of the period. This dates from 1810.

Somehow I don't sense proper underclothing here - especially in the middle figure (Harriet Musgrove) behind the candles. 

There are elements, however, that are lovely, like Lady Russel's exotic, turbaned look.

A good example of the exotic look, from an exhibit of Napoleon & Josephine-era costumes. 

Next: 'Sense & Sensibility', the 2008 version, with costumes by Michele Clapton. Again, some things I really like, others are appalling.

Why is her hair down? And what is that bandanna  thing around her head?!

These are very nice, though Eleanor's fringe is not good. Note the dress on the right, like the one worn by Jane above.

This dress & the dress below are an interesting crossed-over style that I first encountered in the 1995 'Sense & Sensibility'. At first I didn't like it at all, but I quite like it now.

An example from the early 1800s.

Next: the 1995 'Sense & Sensibility'. Hang in there, folks, we're almost through! The costuming was done by two people: Jenny Beavan and John Bright. And it is lovely!

Another example of the cross-front dress!

Another - historical - example of this dress.

There are beautiful examples of this under-the-bust dress like the ones we saw above. 

Look at Marianne's lovely hair! Watch & learn!

An authentic example.

And another one. 

Last: the iconic 1995 'Pride & Prejudice'. Lovely, lovely costuming, done by Dinah Collin (who also did 'Doctor Who' in the 1980s, the very jolly series 'Campion', 'The Bourne Supremacy', 'Hyde Park on Hudson' and many others.

Lovely dresses & spencer jackets, & bonnets & hair!

Look at those sleeves. And you can tell she's wearing stays. Yay!

The rich, exotic gowns of Mr Bingley's sisters. 

This is a good example of day caps, bonnets and pelisse (coat).

A fashion plate showing a lovely pelisse. 

A gorgeous original example of a pelisse.

I hope that you've enjoyed looking through the lovely empire/ regency fashions of the Jane Austen adaptations, and that you've maybe learned a little.